4x3, 5x3 or 6x3 – small and compact. Perfect for neatly storing garden tools or bikes but it will be a squeeze if you need to store larger items
6x4, 7x5, 7x7, 8x6 or 8x8 – the mid-size choice. Suitable for larger equipment like lawnmowers and bikes
10x6, 10x8, 10x10, 12x8, 15x10, 20x10 – large and spacious. Offers more storage space or big enough to be used as a workshop

Apex – Useful if the shed will be used to store tall items. Water will run off easily when it rains

Pent – A good choice if height needs to be restricted for any reason. Guttering that leads to a water butt can be added too

Reverse apex – Similar to an apex style but the door is on the longer side of the shed, another option to consider depending on the space available

Corner – If a shed will be placed into a corner this style makes sense. Can also be used to hide an area of a back garden
3. Choose the construction
Overlap – Rough-sawn boards overlap to ensure water run-off
Shiplap tongue and groove – A more robust set up with interlocking tongue and groove boards with a shiplap profile for water run-off
Tongue and groove – Very tough. Tight tongue and groove boards for wind and rain protection
Forest offers two types of treatment:
- Dip treated – the shed boards are dipped in anti-fungal solution at the factory. A surface-level treatment that provides short term protection against rot. 10-year anti-rot guarantee provided
- Pressure treated – anti-fungal preservative is forced into the timber under pressure. 15-year anti-rot guarantee provided
Forest recommends a base for the new shed is prepared one of three ways:

Concrete slabs – these are laid neatly with minimal gaps, on top of a dressing of sharp sand and hardcore

Concrete – a solid concrete base will minimise movement of sub-soil, so there’s much less chance your shed will move or drop over time

Timber base – this would be made of a timber frame that’s attached to stakes driven into the ground. Can be a useful solution if concrete or concrete slabs can’t be used